Sewing machines



Patent ed Apr. 25, I899.

R. EDEB.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed July 25, 189B.)

3 Sheets-Sheet i.

(No Model.)

Y z NORRIS PETERS co, PnuTcuTrm. wumuamn, o c

Patented Apr.- 25-, [899.

n. EDER. SEWING MAGHINEI (Application filed. July 25, 1898.)

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

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Patented Apr. 25, I899.

R EDER SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed July 25, 189B.)

3 Sheets Sheet 3.

(No Model.)

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Unrrn ATES REINHOLD EDER, OF BERLIN, GERMANY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPEGIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 623,534, dated April 25', 1899.

Application filed July 25,1898. Serial No. 686,849. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, REINHOLD EDER, machinist, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, and a resident of 13 Greifswalderstrasse, in the city of Berlin, N.'O., and Empire of Germany, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in those sewing-machines in which an eyed needle and a hook-needle are employed.

My improvements consist in novel features of construction hereinafter described and claimed.

In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will proceed to describe it with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure l is a side elevation of myimproved sewing-machine. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of my sewing-machine, the loop-carrier being broken away and omitted. Fig. 3 is a detail view transverse of the machine, the needles, with the thread, being forced through the fabric and the loop conveyer and spreader ready to seize the thread from the eyed needle. Fig. 4 is another view, the loop conveyer and spreader having taken the thread from the eyed needle and placed it around the hookneedle, and thus formed a loop beneath the fabric. veyer and spreader and needles having been returned to normal position and the needles having carried the ends-of the loop with them through the fabric. Fig. 6 is another View, the loop-carrier having placed the 1oopbeneath the eyed needle. Fig. 7 is anotherview, the loop-carrier having been withdrawn and the eyed needle having entered the loop and penetrated the fabric. Fig. 8 is a top view of a piece of fabric having a series of looped Fig. 9 is a detail showing a top view of the loop conveyer and spreader. Fig. 10 is a detail showing a front View of the loop-carrier. Fig. 11 is a detail showing a side view of the loop-carrier. Fig. 12 is a detail plan view of the feed-bar shifter.

It has heretofore appeared impossible to make by means of a machine tongue orlooped stitches, such as buttonhole-stitching, called languets, which resemble handwork. The languet, as at present well known, works with Fig. 5 is another view, the loop conseveral threads or produces chain or tainbourstitches for connecting the cross-threads. Apart from the fact that these machines are very complicated the machine-made languets do not appear so nice as those made by hand, and are for this reason in less demand than they should be, so that the main bulk of the said languets are still at present made by hand. The machine which I have produced has in addition to great simplicity in construction the advantage that it forms a languet which has the appearance of a hand-made languet. My machine, as heretofore, is provided with two needles, but works with only one thread, which the machine lays double above and below the fabric and forms only on one edge a quilting-stitch, as is the case in languets made by hand.

The essential part of the machine is the fabric-feeding device simultaneously working on both sides of the needles and the mechanism forming the stitch-that is to say, the eyed and hook needles in combination with a loop carrier and a loop conveyer and spreader. The thread-feeder only gives enough thread to the needles necessary to form a stitch, while the loop conveyer and spreader conveys the thread from the eyed needle to the hook-needle beneath the fabric and the loop-carrier tran sfers the then formed loop again from the hook-needle to the eyed needle above the fabric and the eyed needle then stitches to the fabric the center of the loop and continues down through the fabric to present the thread to the loop conveyer and spreader to form another loop.

1 is the bed-plate, 2 the hollow arm, and 3 the head of my improved sewing-machine. The bed-plate l is formed with an opening 1, overand in which the stitching mechanism operates.

a is a work-plate located over the opening, and 5 a piece of fabric being worked upon.

a is a cam-disk, and a is a ratchet-wheel, with which the cam-disk is combined, moun ted on a stud or center a secured to the side of the arm. 2.

b is the driving-shaft, whereby the ratchetwheel a is rotated intermittently in the direction indicated by the arrow thereon. Secured to the driving-shaft is a cam-wheel f, formed with a cam-groove f.

0 is a lever having a longitudinal slot 0 and pivoted at its lower end to the arm 2 and at its upper end connected with the camwheelf by means of a pin 0 working in the cam-groove f.

is a pawl or ratchet engaging the teeth of the ratchet-wheel and adjustable at its inner end in the slot 0 of the lever c by means of a thumb-nut g.

(I is an upwardly-prejecting lever pivoted at its lower end to the base of the arm and bearing by means of an antifriction-roller d on the cams a of the cam-disk a, whereby a vibrating movement is imparted thereto. Iivoted at its inner end to the upper end of the lever d is a rack-bar e, reciprocating in and extending through the upper part of the head 3, so as to mesh with a pinion 7L secured to the upper end of a sheath orsleeve 71,, with which the feeding device is connected. The rack-bar c imparts an oscillating movement to the sheath h by means of the pinion 71 \Vithin the sheath the needle-bar It is supported and reciprocatcd by the usual supporting-bar 7L7.

3 is a collar to which is pivoted by its upper end the feed-bar 1 provided with a foot .2, which encircles the eyed needle 0 and hook-needle 7L and is adapted to move the fabric. This pivoting of the feed-bar permits the foot to move, as indicated by the arrows, so as to feed the fabric to the maehinc. The inward movement of the feedbar is imparted by means of a crank-lever m, pivoted to the head and having its inner arm provided with a pin 0;, bearing against the feed-bar, and its outer arm engaged by a projection 1: on a slide-bar n. The feed-bar is pivoted at its upper end to a projection .71 on a vertieally-reciproeating slide 03 connected with the d riving-shaft. The outward movement of the feed-bar is accomplished by a spring .2, also secured to the head. The sheath h is, as previously stated, oscillated by connection with the cam-disk a.

t" is a ring or yoke seeu red to the feed-bar 'and surrounding the sheath.

1' is a disk plate located within an oblong opening 1) in the ring, within which is an angular block 7L3, mounted on the sheath. To the angular block its is pivoted a lever whose lower arm engages in a recess i in the disk plate, so as to rotate it with the sheath and disk plate and whose upper arm bears on a cam-block Its. A downward movement'of the cam-block 71 will impart to the feed-bar, through the lever it and ring or yoke, an auxiliary feed movement in addition to the feed movement imparted by the lever 00. The direction of this auxiliary feed movement will depend upon the relative position of the lever 70, which is controlled by the cam disk a through the medium of the lever (Z, link 6, and sheath h, on which the lever is supported. Through this feed mechanism it is apparent that the line of stitching maybe curved. The shape of the curve depends upon the form of cam-disk. In all the movements of the disk the feed-bar swings at each stitch toward and away from the direction of stitching. The thread-feeder 't' is also operated by the driving-shaft I). For this purpose the thread-feeder bears by means of a roller 70 on a cam-disk Z, mounted on the driving-shaft b in such a way that at one rotation of the driving-shaft Z) the thread -feeder is moved once forward and swung backward, whereby as much thread is drawn off the spool as is necessary for forming one stitch. As previously stated, two needles are employed in forming a stitch-to wit, an eyed needle 0, in which the thread is threaded, and the other a hook-needle h for seizing the loop, both of which perforate the material in common.

on is the loop eonveyer and spreader, which conveys the thread from the eyed needle to and around the hook-needle and places it in the hook of the hook-needle. The loop conveyer and spreader works from the right to the left and comprises two parts on. and m. The loop conveyor and spreader m is located normally in front of the eyed needle between the latter and the thread and draws the thread when it swings forward toward the hook-needle. The head carries the pivoted jaw m which has the action of laying the thread around the hook and which is adapted to rest closely to the head m in normal position, and thus lay inside the loop of the thread.

m is an adjustable plate projecting in the path of the heel of the pivoted jaw, so as to open it and draw apart the loop of the thread, which is thus stretched across the hook-needle, lays it around the latter, and deposits it in the hook thereof. When the needle-bar ascends, the needles carry the ends of the loop through the fabric and a loop-carrier it takes the inner end of the loop of the thread from the hook of the hook-ueedle 7t and transfers it over the fabric to a position beneath the eyed needle, then withdraws, and the eyed needle passes down through the folded end of the loop, thus securing the adjacent sides of the loop. The loop-carrier consists of a pair of jaws or forceps n, which are pivoted to a swinging rod 2), hinged to the head of the machine and which is adapted to swing to and fro. This to-and-fro swinging of the rod 1) takes place by means of a roller q, traveling in the cam-groove r of a cam-disk r, mounted 011 the driving-shaft I) and connected by links 7' r with the swinging rod 17. On the rotation of the driving-shaft b the jaws a are moved forward and backward. \Vhen the jaws have reached their farthest forward point and the eyed needle is admitted within the loop, they are opened in order to permit them to withdraw past the eyed needle. This opening of the jaws takes place by means of a cam s, secured to the slide-bar n. This cam passes between the inner ends 25 of the jaws and forces the outer ends of the jaws apart. Vhen these jaws have again returned and the slide-bar 1 commences to rise, the

cam 8 moves away from the inner ends of the jaws and the jaws are closed by means of the springs to.

In operation the eyed needle and the hook-needle h enter the fabric and the eyed needle carries the thread with it. (See Fig. 3.) The thread-feeder then swings forward, and at the same time the loop conveyer and spreader commences to swing forward. The loop-conveyer-and-spreader head m and pivoted jaw m then push themselves between the eyed needle and the thread and carry the thread which has been delivered by the thread-feed 't' to the hook-needle. The heel of the pivoted jaw comes against the-plate m and opens the pivoted jaw, spreads the thread, and-places the loop of the thread across the hook-needle. (See Fig. 4.) The needles rise again, the hook of the hook-needle carrying with it the loop of the thread which has been laid around the hook-needle by the loop conveyer and spreader. At the same time the loop conveyer and spreader m moves backward into its initial position. (See Fig. 5.) The loop-carrier then commences to move forward and the closed jaws push themselves, with their point, into the loop of the thread, remove this loop from off the hook of the hookneedle, and carry it to the eyed needle. (See Fig. 6.) In the meantime the feeding device has moved the fabric one stitch farther forward, the eyed needle once more stitches within the loop and fastens the latter to the fabric. On the descent of the slide-barv the cam s has passed between the inner ends of the jaws n and opened the latter, and by the rotation of the driving-shaft b the loop-carrier has been drawn back. (See Fig. 7.) The stitch described is now finished and the machine stands again in its initial position for another stitch.

Fig. 8 shows the appearance of a piece of material provided with a series of languet or loop stitches, from which it may be seen without fu rther explanation what appearance the stitches have and how they are. formed. Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A sewing-machine, comprising a needlevbar adapted to receive and to reciprocate an eyed needle and a hook-needle, a loop conveyer and spreader located beneath the workplate, having a pivoted jaw and adapted to place the thread from the eyed needle around the hook-needle, means for opening the pivoted jaw of the loop conveyer and spreader and a swinging bar located above the workplate provided with a loop-carrier adapted to transfer a loop from around the hook-needle to a point beneath the eyed needle; substantially as described.

2. A sewing-machine, comprising a needlebar adapted to receive and to reciprocate an eyed needle and a hook-needle, a loop @011- veyer and spreader adapted to place the thread around the hook-needle and a swinging bar located above the work, provided with a loop-carrier consisting of a pair of pivoted spring-jaws adapted to transfer a loop from around the hook-needle to a point beneath the eyed needle, and a slide-bar carrying a camplate adapted to pass between the inner ends of the jaws to open the latter to permit them to withdraw from the eyed needle; substantially as described.

3. A feeding device comprising a needlebar, an oscillating sheath surrounding the needle-bar, the slide-bar having an arm, a cam-block sleeved to the sheath and supported in the arm, an angular block surrounding the sheath, the disk plate within which the angular block extends, the vertically-reciprocatin g slide, the feed-bar pivoted to the slide, a ring secured to the feed-bar and surrounding the disk plate, the crank-lever having one arm engaged by the slide-bar and the other arm bearing against the feed-bar to cause the inward movement of the latter, a spring for causing the outward movement of the feedbar, and a lever pivoted to the angular block having its lower end engaging the disk plate and its upper end bearing on the cam-block for giving auxiliary movements to the feedbar; substantially as described.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name, this 13th day of July, 1898, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

REINHOLD EDER.

Witnesses:

HENRY HASPER, G. H. DAY. 

